Day
3 Monday
Distance Options A 27 Miles B
37 Miles C 63 Miles
Accommodation : Lady
Gregory Hotel
Today you will be riding West to a town called Gort.
You will be cycling trough an extensively wooded region known as
Sleve Aughty. Thousands of acres of Sitka Spruce forestry interspersed
with crystal lakes with nothing along the road but yourself and
a few deer grazing "the long acre".
The main reason I am taking you trough this region
today is I want to show you areas of the country that have remained
untouched by the massive development that has taken place in Ireland
over the past 8 years. The economic boom referred to as the Celtic
Tiger was somewhat selective with regard to the regions and areas
its presence was felt. By taking the route outlined for today you
will get to see the other side of Ireland. You will understand why
our greatest exports in the 80's were our young workforce. Thankfully
that trend has been reversed.
Gort is a medium sized market town on the Galway
to Ennis Road, situated in a gap between the Slieve Aughty Mountains
and the Burren to the south. The name in Irish is "An Gort",
(The Field) or "Gort Inse Guaire", (Field of Guaire’s
Island).
The town takes its name form King Guaire, the sixth
century King of Connacht, who built a castle here. He had a reputation
for his generosity and it was said that his right arm, his giving
arm, was longer than his left. One legend recalls how Guaire was
sitting down to dinner when mysteriously the plates disappeared
out the windows. He quickly followed them on horseback and soon
met St Colman who had just finished a seven year fast and had eaten
the food. The King was impressed by his ingenuity and granted him
lands at Kilmacduagh where he built a monastery, one of the oldest
in Europe.
The area around the town is notable for its landscape of gray stone
walls and stone-strewn fields. The eighteenth century weigh-house
in the Town Square has recently been restored. There is a strong
tradition of Irish music in the locality and many pubs stage sessions
at night.
Five miles south of Gort is Ardamullwan Castle, where in the Middle
Ages the O’Shaughnessy family had their main stronghold. This
was on the site of the old military barracks. In 1567 Dermot O’Shaughnessy,
claimed the castle on the death of his brother, Roger. A long dispute
followed between Dermot and his nephew John, which resulted in both
of them being killed.
Thoor Ballylee, home of William Butler Yeats
Thoor Ballylee was Yeats's monument and symbol;
in both aspects it had multiple significance. It satisfied his desire
for a rooted place in a known countryside, not far from Coole and
his life-long friend Lady Gregory.To live in a Tower complemented,
perhaps, his alignment with a tradition of cultivated aristocracy
which he had envied and a leisured peace which he had enjoyed.
The tower or castle that Yeats bought was a sixteenth
century norman castle built by the family de Burgo, or Burke. It
consisted of four floors with one room on each, connected by a spiral
stone stairway built into the seven-foot thickness of the massive
outer wall. Each floor had a window overlooking the river which
flowed alongside. At the top here was a flat roof reached by a final
steep flight of steps from the floor below.
The tower had to be restored before Yeats could live in it. By the
summer of 1919 Yeats and his wife and daughter had moved in. Yeats
mentions Ballylee in a letter to Maud Gonne May 1918.
' We hope to be in Ballylee in a month and there
I dream of making a house that may encourage people to avoid ugly
manufactured things - an ideal poor man's house. Except a very few
things imported as models we should get all made in Galway or Limerick.
I am told that our neighbors are pleased that we are not getting
'grand things but old irish furniture'.
After the Yeats family moved out in 1929 it fell into disuse , but
was restored as 'Yeats Tower' in 1965 and fitted out as a Yeats
museum, containing an interesting collection of first editions as
well as items of furniture. The adjoining cottage is fitted out
as a tea room and shop. The tower has been wired for sound and a
pre-recorded commentary can be played on a push-button system. In
addition part of the ground floor has been adapted for an audio-visual
presentation on the years of Yeats's occupancy.
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